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Chad's 1982 G&L 4-String Bass Guitar
Chad's 1982 G&L 4-String Bass Project
>> Workshop >> Chad's 1982 G&L L-1000 4-String Bass Project

Chads 1982 G&L L-1000 4-String Bass Guitar

Tuesday, June 07, 2011 9:03 AM

Brian, I've had my bass back for a few weeks now and I just wanted to tell you how happy I am. I gave you my hard earned money and the beaten down, beaten up guitar of my youth and you gave me back a museum quality show piece that's also ready to hit the road and go on tour! Thank you for you patience, skill and professionalism. Louie Louie never sounded so good!
Thanks again! Chad

5-3-11: Chad drove down from Tampa to drop off his G&L L-1000 @ 10:30AM
The general idea is to try to maintain every aspect of its vintage originality.
To fully restore this bass might decrease its value. Read each section . . .

Body - Electronics - Neck

G&L


Built by Buzzard

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G&L L-1000 Body   Front Before - After -|- Rear Before - After

Body Species & Finish: Mahogany with 2-Tone Tobacco burst finish.

Body Inspection: Although the first photo of the body in the case looks like the body is in excellent shape, it has many surface scuffs; hopefully buffable.

Disassembled: Front 1 - Front 2 -|- Rear 1 - Rear 2

Pickguard: No, although, if it had one, the person that borrowed this from Chad might not have dug his thumb nail all over the top of the body . . . then there's the dents and chips in the paint that I took the curse off: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6

Refinishing: After seeing the partial dent & chip "touchup" was making the rest of the body look even worse, I decided to go for a better solution . . . so, after about 8 hours running through ever-finer grits of wet-dry sandpaper, here's the body front and rear, ready for spray. What follows is the stages of sprayed edges black and top coatings of clear lacquer: Day One : 1 - 2 -|- Day Two : 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5
Day Three : 1 - 2 -|- Day Four: Thursday: Lacquer is still not hard enough to handle. Waiting more time and will buff out when it's ready. Here is the last shot taken on Wednesday afternoon. It shows I'm trying to hurry . . . installed the pickup . . . *sigh* . . . I'm dying to fire this baby up~!   Done: Front - Rear

Cavities: See Copper Foil Shielding

Finger/Thumb Rests: No, but I suggest a few or a Fboard Extension

Bridge: Stock G&L Locktight - top - bottom - black powder coated
Here's the bridge: cleaned up - repainted - ready for reinstallation

Bridge/Pickup Covers: No

Strap Buttons: Stock large headed G&L buttons had to be cleaned up.

Project Parts and Labor Checklist

checkmark G&L L1000 Body
Chad's 1982 G&L 4-String Bass Body

• Body Disassembly
• Body Refinish: Lacquer
Bridge: G&L Refinished
• Bridge: Refinished
Bridge Cover: No
Pickup Cover: No
Pickguard: No
#4 Screws: Chrome
Finger Rest: No
Thumb Rest: No
Strap Buttons: G&L
Strap Locks: No

Electronics:   Passive     Guaranteed for Life

Diagrams: G&L Schematic and Wiring Diagram

Pickup: G&L magnetic field design humbucker with adjustable pole pieces.
Cleaning up the act: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4

Cavity Shielding: Original G&L shows a brass plate at the bottom only. When first plugged into my test amp prior to diassembly it hummed when the strings and knobs were touched. Removal of the bridge shows the ground wire embedded so deeply into the wood there was no way it was making a connection. Okay, let's move on with the shielding: pickup cavity shielded - control cavity shielded 1 & 2

Control Plate: Stock G&L with black powder coat finish. NOTE: The underneath is also powder coated so it is not considered a good ground. Also keep this in mind as the bridge is also black powder coated so an area has to be scuffed to bare metal.
Refinished control plate with black lacquer . . .

Controls: Master volume; bass and treble controls; 3-way selector for humbucking, single coil, and single coil with bass boost modes. The 3-Way Switch is busted off so I located an original G&L wiring diagram and specs on the pots, capacitors, etc.
Here's the G&L control layout and Switch Instruction Sheet.
< Confusion > Toggle Confussion at Talkbass < / Confusion >

The Toggle
should be a 3 position switch. The diagram states 2 position, but: from the center position, moved forward is the bass boost and aft of the center position is bass cut. It's a 3-way Switch period.
1) the forward position is dual coil parallel
2) the middle position is single coil
3) the back position is single coil with bass boost via the capacitors
Selector Switch: Double Pole Double Throw Mini Switch - 3-Way On-On-On

Control Pots: Volume: CTS 250KA -|- Treble: CTS 250KA -|- Bass: CTS 1 MEG

Capacitors: Volume: none -|- Treble: .047 & .001 -|- Bass: .0022 -|- Switch: .1

Resistor: Dilemna: the schematic and diagram both show a 6.8k resistor but this harness doesn't have one and neither does this other one from another bass. What to do, whattado whattado . . . wire it up without it to see how she flies~?
I still have a chance to have this ready before next Tuesday when Chad wanted to pick up the bass. I have the components mounted on the control plate . . . so . . . do I desolder the existing harness to rob two caps I don't have in stock . . . or . . . run to Radioshack to see what they have . . . or place an order online and chance not getting the bass ready on time~?????   C'mon Dave, I know you're reading all this stuff . . . chime in buddy; what would you do? By the time I hear back I'll bet the harness will be done~!

Wire: 22awg High Temp PTFE Teflon Silver Plated Stranded Copper

Output Jack: Switchcraft - Mono with short threaded bushing.

Control Plate Assembly: Stock G&L Photos prior to disassembly: 1 - 2 - 3
Completed the Harness . . . bigger view: zoom -|- Assembly 1 - 2

Control Knobs: 3 G&L grungy chromies with set screws

checkmark Electronics
  G&L Bass Wiring Diagram
G&L Bass Wiring Diagram

Copper Foil Shielding
Control Plate: Refinished
Control Pots: CTS
Capacitors: 4
Switch: 3-way on-on-on

3 way selector switch
Switch Wiring

Output Jack: Switchcraft
Harness: Repro G&L
Assembly: Repro G&L

Control Plate Assembly

Control Knobs: Domes
Pickup(s): G&L
Pup Screws: 3 Chrome
• Pup Pads: G&L Springs
• Pickups: Setup/Output

Control Plate Assembly
Completed but that's
not stock knobbage.

Originals badly chipped & uncleanable but saved.


G&L Neck

G&L Neck - 4-String Maple/Maple     34" Scale

Disassembly & Inspection: Before disassembly the neck was like a banana but after getting rid of the strings she looks normal . . . and after removal of the neck I located the date stamped on the neck heel and some chicken scriblings in the pocket. Also an excellent fit in the pocket. The only thing scary will be the frets~!

Truss Rod: Presoaking with some Dr. Duck droppings before attempting to see if the truss rod is serviceable. The TR nut doesn't look buggered so that's a good sign.
Next morning and the truss rod moves very nicely in both directions.

Truss Rod Cover: None

Cleaning the Neck: Look at this, and then these: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 and then the rest with the application of some Duck jism: 5 - 6 - 7 - 8   Years of oils and other goo removed. It's always better to clean everything before starting the fretwork. Take a note: NO abrasives or volatile chemicals were used to clean the oils from the neck.
But also note there were more than just a few HOURS spent to get it to this point, so you see . . . this is what you can accomplish instead of twisting your carrot~!

Headstock: 1982 G&L L-1000 - 2 - 3 - 4

Tuning Machines: Vintage Schallers
Removed, disassembled, cleaned, lubed, reassembled and ready to reinstall.
See any difference~??   Now imagine this bass being maintained on a regular basis through the years. Which do you think is worth more . . . a bass that looks like a relic or an old one that looks new~!   Relicing basses is for idiots and wannabes~!

Partial Fret Job: While these frets are screaming for replacement, they're original so I'm going to go for one more shot at leveling. Besides, what's the worst that it can become~? A frettedless~! These frets will be as low as they can go which will be tricky keeping it from the dreaded buzzing. I've got one week to complete before Chad returns to pick it up. Besides, he handled my fretless and I think he's ready~!

Fret Ends: 42 of them . . . and yeah, they're getting done too.

Fret Size: Barely visable . . . just kidding . . . here is some typical wear with the rear of the neck getting worse. Enuf jabbering. Let's get going on the fretwork . . .
Photos of fretwork: 1 - 2 . . . more were coming but what's the sense?

Fret Finishing: They surely are finished . . .

Neck Deglossing: I've knocked it down some . . . then applied duck sauce.

Fretboard Finish: Dr. Duck's Axwax

Fboard Extension: Also known by the name "ramps" originated by Gary Willis.
These can be either a short and thin piece similar to the thumb rest, only lower. A full extension would go completely under all strings and tend to make it easier to play the strings using a lighter touch. A narrow extension is cool when you want a low thumb rest to run from the end of your fboard to the neck pickup. It runs parallel to and in line with the fboard edge. An example of a narrow extension is
here while an excellent description of "ramps" is on Bryan Tyler's site.

Strings: Replaced unknowns with Rotosound RB45: .045, .065, .085, .105
Removed: .105", .100", .080", .050" semi-oddballs


String Nut: Reslotted brass

String Guide: G&L nickel button . . .

Special Setup Specs: Made it work . . .
checkmark G&L All Maple
• Headstock: G&L
• Neck Disassembly
Truss Rod Cover: No
• Fboard: R&R
• FB Finish: Dr. Duck's
• FB Edge Roll: No
• FB Extension: No
Fret Size: MJ
• Frets: Partial FJ
Nut R&R:
Tuners: R&R
Tuner Screws: R&R
String Guide: G&L Button
• Strings: Rotosound RB45

G&L Setup Instructions
G&L Setup Instructions

When all else fails
R T F M

References and Walk-Abouts



Chad's 1982 G&L 4-String Bass Guitar
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The Workshop >> Chad's 1982 G&L L-1000 4-String Bass Project

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