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>> Workshop >> Project: Dave's SX-SJB-75 B MRD Jazz Bass
SX-SJB-75 B MRD Jazz Bass was ordered from Rondo on Thursday, 1-14-09
Bass arrived: Saturday 5PM - 01-17-09 -|- Completed bass: 2AM - 01-23-09
Shipped via UPS on 01-23-09 -|- Dave Received: 01-29-09 - Dave wrote
I am using this page as an example and a place where I can send people who'd like an idea of the cost(s) involved. I've included the break-down on how I arrive at the pricing so everybody will have this information and so I don't have to keep emailing all the same info . . . but if you still have questions . . . |
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General InspectionsWhen a bass arrives I check for damage and overall condition of the mechanical and electrical aspects of the bass. If damaged or faulty, it goes back to Rondo.
The bass arrived on Saturady the 17th and immediately I was distressed by how it was delivered. First of all it was left at my back door in a snow pile and the box shows signs of damage - rips and dents in the cardboard. I don't know if this is how it left Rondo but I sure don't ship a bass as badly as they do either.
I've taken some photos: Dented and ripped box -|- warped box -|- backside
Whenever the weather is extreme as in winter or very hot summer it's important to allow the bass to aclimate to the temperature change by leaving it in its package after bringing it indoors. I allow 24 hours, especially after picking a box out of a snow pile not knowing how long it had been there. I never saw the truck nor the driver. The clown should have at least rang my doorbell~!
So now it's Sunday morning and the unveiling begins. Opened the box -|- Bass looks okay.
Had the bass been damaged I'd have the photographic proof and returned it.
The rest of the inspections and work performed will be commented upon below.
SetupSome people only want to have their bass set up so it's good-to-go as soon as they receive it. Here's a situation where you may want to consider having the "whole" job done, as in a Setup only after the Fretwork gets its attention first.
A Setup includes fretboard polishing, lubrication of the tuning machines and bridge components, adjustments of the truss rod to set the neck relief, initial string tuning and action, intonation of the 2nd octave at the 12th fret, and pickup height for maximum output.
A Setup is $100 labor when no other work is performed, but only $50 if you're having a Partial Fretjob. A partial fretjob involves everything that a full fretjob has done, short of installing the frets. A full fretjob involves total fret replacement.
SX frets are not at their best. They have a tendency to be sharp on the ends because they don't get dressed after they've been beveled at the SX factory. Sometimes the frets are dead, usually caused by the fret not being set properly. Then we have high and low frets which is the cause of most of the buzzing. This is considered a "partial" fretjob and runs $100 over and above the cost of the Setup.
If I really had it my way I would refuse to do a Setup unless the Fretwork is addressed. To me, it is throwing money away to only do a setup. And it is more difficult to do a setup when shit is just not right with the Fboard to begin with.
YOU are the boss but you would have to pay me:
Setup Only Labor & Final Shipping: $120.00
P.S.: Notice that with Setup Only there is a Shipping charge for final shipping to your home, but shipping is included when having a fretjob (or partial) preceding your Setup. So, isn't this saving money in order to get the job done right~?
Body Finish: Metalic Red
These metallic paint jobs really look great. There's no way my camera's ability can capture a good likeness, but I tried again anyway: Body backside -|- Close-up
Pickguard: Black-White-Black
Just so everyone knows . . . these pickguards come with two layers of plastic that get removed. I know it's funny that I mention this but, for two reasons, I do: (1) for folks who say the PG looks like crap after they've removed the layer of plastic. The didn't realize there were two. (2) I received a bass for maintenance and the guy never removed either layer of plastic~!
Pickguard Screws: 01-18-09: Exchanged Chrome for Black Screws.
Thumb Rest: AKA Finger Rest. None
Bridge: SX Chrome versus an upgrade to a heavier-mass OEM Deluxe Bridge
Dave asks, "Bridge upgrades, how necessary do you think they are on an SX ?"
I don't know how "necessary" it is to replace. After all, the SX bridge does its basic job of holding the strings at their proper elevation. But many are of the belief that a heavier mass bridge increases sustain so I provide a bridge that allows that at an affordable cost: $22.95 plus shipping for chrome that's a direct replacement. I don't side either way. I mainly go for the replacement beause the "upgrade" to the heavier bridge also has the added feature of grooved slots where the saddle screws ride. On a stock Fender style bridge there is a tendency for the saddles to spread. Not so much on a Fender style bass but in other basses.
Dave went with the Black OEM Deluxe: $33.30 shipped - PAID: 01-18-09
Bridge Cover: None
Strap Buttons: 01-21-09: Exchanged for Black Buttons and rubber washers.
Fretboard: Black Bound Maple with 20 jumbo frets and Black Block Inlays.
SX necks are known for their heavy gloss applied and many request, and I suggest, the gloss be reduced on the backside because this heavy gloss is known for causing drag. I reduce this gloss. I do not remove it. I take a Scotchbrite pad and bring it down to an even finish . . . let's call it semi-gloss because the integrity of the finish is still available. No extra charge if done with a fretjob.
Fretjob A Full Fretjob involves everything of a Partial Fretjob with the exception of installing or replacing all the frets. Where this is a new bass it is a partial job.
This involves jig-leveling and crowning of the frets, fret end re-beveling and radiusing, polishing of frets, conditioning the fboard (except poly over maple),
and final sealing and buffing.
• Naturally, whenever a fretjob is done it needs, and receives, a full Setup.
Partial Fretjob and Setup $150.00
Dave decided to go with the full treatment. PAID: 01-15-09
Headstock: Clear gloss with SX Decals.
Some have their headstock painted to match the body. I know from experience that these metallic paint jobs are extremely difficult to match. I've tried to match the metal flake in this paint and it turned out better that I only matched the red.
But, in general, for me to match the headstock with the body is $50.00 minimum.
I have no problem with reshaping the headstock (this is extra money) but I will not cut it trying to match Fender nor will I apply Fender decals to the headstock.
Here's an SX SJB-62 short-scale headstock I reshaped and painted red that just so happens to be the paint I used on another SX-SJB-75 B MRD Jazz Bass.
Tuning Machines: Chrome SX Vintage-style
For maintenance purposes I did a short tutorial on how I adjust loose tuning machine keys. And NO, there are no direct replacements for SX tuners that I know of. If you know, let me in on the secret. The closest I've found to the shape of the base plate are Squier tuners.
Strings:
Rondo usually uses D'Addario Super Light EPS220 Bass Strings.
The string guages are .040 .060 .075 .095
• Dave wants Rotosound Swing Bass RS66LD Strings.
The string guages are .045 .065 .080 .105
Roto Strings: $25.40 shipped - PAID: 01-15-09
01-22-09: The strings arrived at 5:10 PM.
String Nut: Generic plastic.
In general, a new nut is made whenever the neck and fretwork is done as a whole, but it's not always necessary. Even though this is a plastic nut, it is a new plastic nut. And, where the SX usually ships from Rondo with light strings, this nut can be made to work. Hopefully the height of the slots is fine (usually the slots are high). I always check and adjust or replace anyway at the time I do a fretjob.
A Nutjob, by itself, with no other work performed, is an average of $35.00 for the nut and labor but is only the cost of the part (or material) when done with a full or partial fretjob. In nut replacement I'm asked, "Which material should I use?" and my opinion is this: a brass (metal) nut is bright; a bone is for tone (mellow) . . . everything else is somewhere in between . . . and then there's GraphTech.
On Dave's bass I should only have to widen the slots a few thousandths . . .
Passive Electronics
Pickups: Stock SX Jazz
The pickups I find are just fine. Some folks think that because this is an inexpensive bass that the pickups are weak or whatever. To me, I advise you hear the bass before you decide you go for some over-priced name brand pups.
Pickup Screws: 01-18-09: Exchanged Chrome for Black Screws.
Pickup Cover: None
Controls: Volume-Volume-Tone.
The SX control pots that are the weakest point. They're the dime-sized China-made pots and are cheap as hell, which on average need to be replaced after about 6 months to a year depending upon usage of course. I always advise changing the stock SX electronics out for CTS or other heavy duty American made pots, Orange Drop capacitor, Switchcraft output jack and a higher grade of wire.
The CTS Control Pot Assembly can be bought for $50 and labor is included.
These are prewired (when I have time) and are to Standard Fender specifications, including the Control Plate, which has to be changed from the Fender to having your SX plate drilled out to accept the CTS pots. The Fender control plate has a rounded top whereas the SX is pointed.
Control Knobs: V-V-T.
These need to be changed from stock SX if going for the solid shaft CTS pots.
Cavities: The cavities should be shielded to reduce the humming from outside interfering frequencies. But are you aware that the biggest source for receiving these humming sounds comes through your own body? Your body acts as a large conductor. It's a fact. Another fact is there's no way to completely eliminate all of the humming. You'd have to close off the pickups to do that. But, as long as you aren't standing within two to three feet of your amp or computer, your bass will be fine.
This is a two-hour job and will run $50 labor and the copper foil is included.
The job involves accurately cutting each piece of adhesive backed foil and ensuring it will stick to the cavity walls. This means the cavities get cleaned up and smoothed out. Then the foil gets rubbed into place. Finally the main base seams are soldered.
Dave has chosen not to have the shielding done at this time.
Wiring: Not being redone. The CTS Control Plate has its pots wired to standard Fender specs including the cloth-covered wire.
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 Parts Checklist
 SJB-75 MRD Body
Front -|- Rear
 • Finish: Metalic Red
• Bridge: OEM Deluxe
• Bridge Cover: None
• Pickguard: B-W-B
• PG Screws: Black
• Thumb Rest: None
• Strap Buttns: Black
SX SJB-75 Neck
• Nut: Stock SX plastic
• Tuning Machines: SX
• Tuner Screws: Chrome
• String Guide: Chrome
• Strings: Rotosounds
Electronics
• Shielding: None
• Pickups: Stock SX Jazz
• Pup Screws: Black
• Pickup Cover: None
• Control Pots: SX
• Control Knobs: Push-on
• Standard Jazz Wiring
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Hi Brian,
The bass arrived today. After playing it for about the past 2 hours I'm amazed how well this thing plays. With my other SX having been in pieces for a long time after an unfortunate accident at a show (some drunk getting up on the stage and knocking it off the stage and breaking the neck between sets. Which is exactly why I like playing cheap basses!), I forgot how much I like the profile on these over the one on my current Fender and the previous ones I've had before. A little beefier but not too thick to where I can't get my hands around it.
You weren't joking about your fret jobs either, it's beautiful. The action is right on with where I like it to be. It's the perfect medium for me to where I can play comfortably with or without a pick, slap, anything. I'm also curious as to whether you smoothed out the neck finish. It seems to be less glossy (and sticky) than the way SX necks usually are. If you did, it's a very nice job since I can't tell whether that's the nature of the finish or if it's been changed!
After plugging it in the pickups don't sound half bad, but I probably will gut it later and change at least the pots and stuff, and possibly shield it. I really didn't notice much excess hum from it though with either pickup solo, surprising for a jazz bass.
I'm thinking seriously about shipping my other SX your way and having you put it back together for me with the new neck I got! I don't regret forking out the cost of the bass to get it setup right. I've always been convinced that a decent setup is all these need to be contenders, and you definitely kept that idea alive for me with this one. I have no doubt my SX P/J is going back to primary duty once I get it back together.
For a bit over $300 total this bass kicks ass. The tuners and pickups are actually a step up from the one I got a few years ago. I probably won't even change these tuners out.
Thanks again for everything!
~Dave
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