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>> Workshop >> Jeff's Brice HXB-405 Fretless Bass Project
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Tuesday, December 14, 2010 4:31 PM:
Hi Brian, I bought a Brice HXB-405 fretless 6 years ago and rarely used it. I was playing mostly blues and rock and used a fretted 4 stringer. Now that I am playing more jazz and slow blues I am finding more need for the Brice HXB. I find it a great bass (it sounds very nice) but it needs some work to make it worthy to be my full time instrument. You are the luthier so you would know better but here is what I think I need:
Continued here: Page 1 - Page 2.
Bass arrived via UPS Tuesday, 01-04-2011 but all was not well due to UPS~!
Bass completed on 01-18-11 - UPS Tracking Number: 1Z2002W60311785743 |
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Brice HXB Body Disassembled: Front - Rear
Body Species & Finish: Alder with thin figured top and Bubinga-colored finish.
Whenever I see tops as thin as these the first question entering my mind is, "Is it live or memorex?" or "Is it a real, but thin, figured top or is it a photo?" And while I'm at it, I've never seen Bubinga with a figure like this. At any rate, my applying any other finish to this bass is a non-issue, however I usually advocate Dr. Duck's AxWax as an excellent cleaner and preservative.
Body Inspection: I give this body an 8 out of 10 for the few dings and scuffs, but it's in great shape with nothing too noticeable. Photos: 1 - 2 - 3
Cavities: See Copper Foil Shielding - Shielding completed Thurday 01-06-11
Pickguard: No
Finger/Thumb Rests: Yes? No? Also see Fboard Extension
Bridge: String-thru-body ~ This was cleaned and sealed before reassembly.
Bridge/Pickup Covers: No
Strap Buttons/Locks: Strap Locks are something that are overlooked too often.
If you have one strap and many basses just one set is needed and strap lock buttons only for each bass. I have a strap for almost every bass I have so I use a complete set for each bass.
The thing to consider is which brand because there are several and some are interchangeable.
Neck - 5-String Fretless Maple/Rosewood 35" Scale
Disassembly & Inspection: Front - Rear - Heel
Moderate wear in the fingerboard with require releveling. Rear needs a good cleaning. The heel was the disappointment in that there is a cardboard sliver for a shim, which I consider half-assed because a full heel shim would theoretically provide tonal transfer far superior than the sliver that hoists it in the air leaving literally no full contact.
This Full Heel Shim will be an Extra. YES ~ NO ???
Update: It tuns out the neck heel is flush within the pocket. It should not need a shim.
Headstock: Brice 2+3 Configuration
One of my fetishes is how strings exit the nut onto the string posts. When a company takes the time to ensure the strings run straight onto the posts with each one parallel with the rest, it shows the company takes a higher pride standpoint than those that don't. And it shows with Brice basses all around, not just the headstock, but the electronics and overall construction seems better too.
Tuning Machines: R&R
These get removed, disassembled, lubed, reassembled and reinstalled.
Truss Rod Cover: Removed for truss rod access . . .
Fingerboard: Rosewood ~ Relevel / Reradius / Edge Roll
While not the same as a "fret" job, a fretless fingerboard goes through almost the same procedures as a fretted board. It is removed and disassembled and installed into a jig to determine and correct it for level, removing grooves, etcetera. It is less expensive in that there are no slots to be reworked or installed, but it still includes the price of the Setup. Continued
Update 01-07: Reradiused fboard to 12" ~ Edge rolled to 3/64" See: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4
Fingerboard Finish: Choices: Seal with Dr. Duck's; Clear Poly; or Epoxy
Dr. Duck's is a cleaner sealer application. I use this on my basses. On everything, body, hardware, neck, strings. If your board is to remain uncoated (poly or epoxy) there is no charge for this unless you buy a bottle, which I recommend, and is $7.00 . . . Continued
Fboard Extension: Also known by the name "ramps" originated by Gary Willis.
These can be either a short and thin piece similar to the thumb rest, only lower. A full extension would go completely under all strings and tend to make it easier to play the strings using a lighter touch. A narrow extension is cool when you want a low thumb rest to run from the end of your fboard to the neck pickup. It runs parallel to and in line with the fboard edge. An example of a narrow extension is here while an excellent description of "ramps" is on Bryan Tyler's site.
Fret Size: Fretless
Strings: Thomastik-Infeld Jazz Series Flatwound Bass StringsMedium Light JF365: .044 .057 .072 .096 .136
Because the bass is a 35" and I want to string it through the body I think I need the long 36" strings. I believe that is the size I bought 6 years ago. They are expensive but they last for years and sound great. ~ Jeff
The first thing I noticed before removing the strings is the out of proportion diameters. Here's what I took off: .043, .055, .070, .095, and a killer B of .135" . . . that's one helluva jump up~!
But then again, looking at the TI Flats above, that's the same B string stretch . . .. . . I think you should reconsider the string diameters ~!
Update: String length is too long. Photo: 1. Going to need shorter strings~!
Without hearing from Jeff for almost a week I had to push forward and complete the bass without his input. I installed the new strings.
String Nut: Bone Nut ~ black Buffalo Horn . . . Nut Material discussion.
Update: Received buffalo bone on 1-13-11: Photos: 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6
When I do a Nut Job by itself I charge $50.00 for bone or brass and $55.00 for the Graph Tech only due to their cost. But when you're sending your bass in for the full "treatment", as you suggest, the cost of the nut job drops $10.00 and doesn't matter what you choose. It'll be $40.00
String Guide: No
Special Setup Specs: Requests by customers for ultra-low action is typical . . .
However, one must take into consideration the action intended . . . as in with your style of playing; how do you intend to play this bass? Do you jam hard? Play smooth jazz? these things help determine how low we can go. How do I go about this when a customer doen't provide this input? I set everything to its lowest point and begin to raise the saddles until the string stop buzzing at the end of the board and then I raise them more to provide a "moderately low" action which also allows some "digging" in while jamming. Setting action "as low as it can go" is not something that works for all styles, but can be set there and YOU can raise the saddles to your own liking.
I was able to play a fretless with a very low action a few days ago and it was an absolute blast. I would like a low action set up also if possible. ~ Jeff
Electronics: Passive
I would like to replace the budget electronics with better quality.
I truly don't care about the active/passive pull switch. I like to play the pickups in passive mode.
If you feel it would be better to disconnect the pull switch it's fine by me. I just want reliable electronics. ~ Jeff
Whenever I replace the harness with CTS and what you see below, I guarantee this for as long as you own the bass. ~ Buzzard
Pickups: Stock Soapbars should be no problem running in passive mode.
They were already used passively through the active/passive pull tap.
I also tested the bass prior to disassembly and it played without the battery.
Cavity Shielding: Copper Foil Shielding - Done: Pickup Cavs - Control Cav
Control Plate: No - Drilled out pot holes to 3/8" for pot shafts.
Control Pots: Three CTS 250KA Long Split Shaft
Capacitor: Sprague Orange Drop Capacitor - .047µF 225P/100V Series
Wiring: HXB Wiring Diagram
Wire: 22awg High Temp PTFE Teflon Silver Plated Stranded Copper
Output Jack: Switchcraft - Mono with long threaded bushing.
Controls: Volume, Bass, Treble, Balance. Active/Passive pull tap will be removed
and replaced with either a Volume-Volume-Tone or a Volume-Tone Volume-Tone configuration due to the 4 existing holes. How would you like this to be?
Thursday, December 16, 2010 3:25 PM ~ Generally I like to keep things as simple and functional as possible so I would be leaning to the volume-volume-tone. However, if you feel it would be better for me to have tone control on both pickups, I will do that. I know there are 4 knobs on the bass right now-I am assuming if we went volume-volume-tone there would be a "dummy knob". ~ Jeff
Control Harness: Completed Harness #1 which is a standard Jazz bass harness
made with longer wiring. It's also made to have the output jack placed on the face instead of leaving a "dummy hole". I can leave the side-mount jack installed as a "plug" instead of plugging on top. I can also re-build the active harness so it can be reinstalled if wanted in the future. That would be an extra however.
Control Assembly: Completed: Wired - Bridge Ground - Control Layout
Control Knobs: Existing knobbage have splines for 6mm pots. I'll hook you up with some black dome tops with set screws and brass sleeves.
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The Tally ChecklistThe List contains items you've agreed to go with . . . indicated with a price.
The others in the list without a price indicate the need to make a decision.
Customers receiving Service on their bass do not pay full price for parts.
Customers receiving Service on their bass do not pay shipping on parts.
However, all first-time customers must pay for their parts prior to assembly.
BODY
NECK
ELECTRONICS
ACCESSORIES
SHIPPING to Rutherford, NJ 07070
$35.00 Includes $500 Insurance
SUB-Total: $456.00
BUDGET payments require a minimum of $100 upfront on any postponed bass work. I can work with budgets but this forces me to charge higher for the additional time. In order to save yourself the additional 10% charge, payment must be made in full.
Minimum Deposit Due ASAP: $100.00
Budget Fee 10%: $45.00
PAID: The 10% Fee has been eliminated as Jeff paid in full on 12-27-10: $456.00
EXTRAS: Unforeseen issues that pop up after the initial payment is made.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010 7:01 PM
I sent out the package early this afternoon. Now for the clincher . . . UPS would not insure the bass without it being sent in the case. I went to two UPS locations in my area and the story was the same. I tried to get a box from guitar center and the like but no luck. This may be a New Jersey UPS issue; I am not sure. Anyway, shipping was $80.00; I will owe you more $ so you can ship the bass back to me. When that time comes let me know and I will send you the extra money. ~ Jeff
Continued here: UPS Sucks.
Shipping Extra: No $00.00
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Project Parts and Labor Checklist
 HXB-405 Body
 • Body Disassembly
• Body Reassembly
• Finish: Dr. Duck's
• Bridge: Black 5-string
• Bridge: R&R
• Bridge Cover: No
• Pickup Cover: No
• Pickguard: No
• PG Screws: No
• Finger Rest: No
• Thumb Rest: No
• Strap Buttons: Grover
• Strap Locks: Grover Blk
HXB-405 Neck
• Headstock: Brice 5
• Neck Disassembly
• Truss Rod Cover:
• Fboard: R&R
• FB Finish: AxWax
• FB Extension: No
• Fret Size: Fretless
• Fret Lines: No
• Nut R&R: Bone - Black
• Tuners: R&R
• Tuner Screws: R&R
• String Guide: No
• TI Strings: JF365
Electronics
• Standard Jazz Wiring
• Copper Foil Shielding
• Pickups: Soapbars
• Pup Screws: 4 black
• Pup Pads: Lg Springs
• Control Plate: Wood
• Control Pots: CTS
• Control Knobs: 3
• Capacitor: OD .047µF
• Output Jack: Switchcraft
• Harness: Jazz bass
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Shipping is paid on the delivery of the completed bass from Bradenton, Florida to wherever the customer is located. An average weight of 15 pounds is used to calculate the shipping charges at UPS.
The box size is pre-calculated (when providing estimates) at 48" x 14" x 4" and is re-adjusted upon receipt of the bass. When providing quick estimates to customers, it is standard practice for me to quote a worst case scenario of $35.00 which has been the average cost to ship a bass from the east coast to the west coast. ALL basses shipped must also include INSURANCE for full value of the instrument. I don't want to hear about, "Oh, but it's only a cheap SX bass." Bullshit~! If that's the way a person feels, chances are good I won't even be servicing their bass. Nine out of ten people who ask about prices never even buy anything, parts or otherwise.
IF you are having your bass delivered to me in anything other than the stock shipping box, such as when you ship it to me in a hardshell case or gig bag, these boxes are usually oversized and will incur much higher shipping charges due to weight and size. The average cost of shipping these oversized containers usually doubles the price and is not usually necessary except for the most valuable bass guitars for protection. In all the years of shipping there has been only one loss due to damage, and that damage occured from the driver at the airport driving over it in a tug~! My point being, yes, take extra precautions when shipping a bass, but lets be reasonable; if you have a value of the bass under $2,000.00, insure it and if it gets destroyed, buy a new bass.
>>> The Workshop >> Jeff's Brice HXB-405 Fretless Bass Project
       
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