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Terms
• Use Paypal for Bass & Parts:
Paypal charges fees for transactions.
Thats okay for parts but I prefer all
labor payments be sent to me via USPS.
• Money Orders for Labor:
Brian W. Cornwell
74 Esta Rd., Plymouth, MA 02360
$100 advance for labor
Received August 14th
Balance of $150: prior to shipment.
THE FINE PRINT:
The Labor Price quoted was derived from an Estimate which is subject to change with the addition or subtraction of any requested work performed. Conversations outside of normal updates, Research, and Parts procurement is additional work and subject to a charge above and beyond the $250.00 which was quoted on 08-01-08
Labor
First Contact: 08-01-08 - 2:07AM
Start Date: 08-05-08
Below is a Journal which is a changing list describing work agreed upon yet does not include conversations concerning additional parts requested or labor invested. Customer involvement is necessary.
Electronics: Desolder and disassemble to remove pickups, pots, etc. Shield cavities.
Drill out Control Plate holes for CTS pots.
Rewire with Jazz Wiring Kit. Keep SX pups.
Bridge: Imported Deluxe 4 Chrome. Swap out for string-thru-body bridge and installation of four vintage style chrome string ferrules. Ferrules must be countersunk semi-flush.
Strings: Elixir 14087 Medium
X-Long .045 .065 .085 .105
Neck: Remove from body, disassemble tuning keys and remove tuner bushings. Degloss back of neck back and at butt.
Headstock: Disassemble Tuning Machines
Requires removal of Bushings for paint.
Sand and Paint Top Red. Apply custom "Owner supplied logo", clear coat, color sand to 2000 grit, polish and buff.
Owner supplied Logo has been cancelled.
Fretboard: Fret Level, Dress, Polish.
Nut: Remove Plastic. Replace with Bone.
Slot to: .047 .067 .087 .107
Strap Locks: Schaller
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SX SJB-75 B MRD 4-String Bass
zoom -|- view two -|- rear view -|- body view
• Scale: 34" • Length: 45" • Weight: 10 lbs.
• Body: Ash with Metalic Red Finish
• Neck: Bolt-on Maple. Adjustable truss rod.
• Fretboard: Bound Maple with 20 jumbo frets.
• Markers: Black block inlays
• Electronics: Passive Jazz-style - V-V-T
• Hardware: Chrome. Black Pickguard.
Paid: $159.95 + $30.00 Shipping
Received Paypal eCheck: 08-10-08
Cleared at Paypal: Aug. 13, 2008
Paypal Fee (to me): $5.00
Ordered at Rondo: 08-13-08 - 11:02AM
UPS: Shipped from NH to MA 08-13-08
UPS: Package Progress
Arrived: 08-14-08 - 5:39PM
Shipping Address: Glendora CA 91740
Shipped: 09-15-08 - Due in CA: 9-22-08
Tracking Number: 1Z5AR136030803899
http://www.ups.com/tracking/tracking.html
UPS: Time in Transit Map
Parts
• Red & Clear Paint & Supplies: $20.00
• Copper Shielding: 1ft. x 1ft. $8.00
• Jazz Wiring Kit: $20.00
Includes 3/CTS 250K Pots, Switcraft Mono Output Jack, .047µF Orange Drop Capacitor, and 22awg blk & wht wire.
• Jazz Control Knobs with Set Screws: $8.00
• Imported Deluxe 4-String Bridge: $25.00
Combination thru-body and top-mount bridge
• String Ferrules: 4 Chrome 3/8": $4.00
• Elixir Strings: $40.00
• Bone Nut Blank: $5.00
• Schaller Strap Locks: Chrome $16.95
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More images: Body Shot -|- Body Metalflake Red -|- Jazz Headstock - (Before Shots)
Preliminary Inspections: Out of the box the checks include everything from the overall appearance of the paint, straightness of the fretboard, adjustability of the tuning machines, playability along the fretboard, quietness of the electronics once plugged in, fret buzzing, fret sharpness on edges, etcetera.
Summary: This bass is one of the best ever received from Rondo Music in the years of dealing with them. Fit and function are near perfect, at least as good as an assembly line bass can be. The paintjob is an excellent choice of a metallic candy red with no immediate signs of orange peel. Nice level job while not appearing to be too heavily applied. Many people don't think of this: Paint adds weight. Sometimes a returned bass to the factory receives a fresh paintjob which adversely adds to the overall weight, especially when the initial paint isn't removed so, in affect, there'll be two complete paintjobs.
Disassembly & Inspection: One of the things I look for is hidden hairline cracks in the body in the cavities and neck pocket. They're not common but they do happen, especially in a factory assembled bass where the assembler might apply too much pressure while tightening the neck into its pocket. View Body & Neck.
Pickguard Notes: One of the things that many customers ask is, "What are all the white spots on my black jazz pickguard?" What you may not be aware of is that the pickguards are shipped out with TWO layers of plastic on them. The first layer comes off easily but the second one can be a real bitch to remove so, before I do my final assembly, I make sure both layers of plastic are removed. One of the things that really BUGS me is that the pickguard shape doesn't match the shape of the body near the lower horn. Look
Bridgework: Combination Thru-Body Top-Mount Bridge. Installed the new bridge to mark the holes to be drilled through the body. In this photo it looks like the drill marks for the holes are off, but don't let your eyes deceive you, these were double-checked with a ruler for centers. It's the ground wire hole that makes the thru-body holes look off and unparallel. It's ready to be put under the drill press. The ferrules will be a two-step process so the heads are semi-flush with the back of the body.
Note: They sent the WRONG string ferrules. I ordered these but they sent me four of these~! They mount the same way but they're not beveled to appear a more smoother transition across the body.
08-27-08: Freehand-drilled the holes and installed the ferrules, ground wire, and the bridge. I tried out a new drill that has the built-in level and, while the job went smoothly, it still doesn't replace a drill press. One of the ferrules is off on the rear of the body. Oh well, shoot me.
Note: If I were to do this again, I would use Hipshot ferrules and a drill press, and from now on I will~!
String Note: The Elixir Strings were ordered extra long. However, this doesn't mean they will actually work through the body. I have not tested these out before with this particular brand.We may need to try other brands so . . . 
• 08-27-08: The strings finally arrived from Musician's Friend and, while I haven't tried them to see if the length is adequate to reach the tuner keys, I did run the E string through the ferrule holes (after installing the bridge) to make sure the hole diameter would accept the OD of the largest string.
Electronics: Desoldered pickup leads from control pots and removed pickups and control plate assembly.
• A new chrome control plate was bought in exchange for the SX control plate (which will remain an intact assembly). The new plate must be drilled out to 3/8" for the three CTS control pots.
• 08-26-08: Applied copper foil to shield body cavities.
• 08-27-08: Installed ground wire prior to bridge installation. Added extra copper foil for more ground area.
• 09-02-08: Prepared both pickups for reassembly. Cut medium density foam to fit underneath each pup.
• Drilled out control plate to 3/8" diameter for CTS pots. Installed two 250K audio taper volume pots, one 250K linear taper tone pot, Switchcraft mone output jack, and .047µF Orange Drop capacitor.
• When wiring the control pots I add enough wire to be able to set the control assembly aside should the need arise to remove the assembly. In this way, the assembly isn't banging against the side of the body.
• Soldered negative wires to volume pots, then neck pickup wires to 1st volume pot, then secured that pup's wires at the center of the pot.
• Soldered a one-piece positive white wire from Vol.2 to Vol.1 output lugs, then threaded that wire from Vol.2 through the Tone pot's input lug and soldered. Then soldered the end of that wire to the positive side of the output jack. Note the direction this wire goes around the output jack. You'll thank me later~!
• Soldered the bridge pickup leads to the same terminals as done with the neck pickup, and then the bridge ground wire to the Tone pot case. Take note how far from the body the wired control plate is. Sweet~!
• Tucked the control wiring neatly into the cavity as I positioned the control plate assembly into its place.
• Positioned the pickguard and control plate assembly so the joint was closed and holes all lined up before installing any screws. If not, the tendency will be open joints and stripped screw holes.
Neckwork: 08-27-08: Resurfaced the frets, dressed and polished. About 6 frets showed out of alignment height-wise but I did the whole board anyways because the block had to ride over all the frets to get to the 6 that were high. They were not bad at all really, but they were higher by maybe 1 to 2 thousandths of an inch. All are crowned and edge-filed and then polished. (Photos coming, maybe later tonight).
Neck Note: The back side (hand area) of the neck is high gloss which causes hand drag for some (most). What I do on my basses is reduce the gloss with a Scotchbrite pad, not to eliminate the paint protection, but to bring it down to a little less than a semi-gloss. This bass neck received this work.
Nutjob: 08-27-08: I may or may not get to the nut making tonight but this is the next in line for work.
Headstock: 08-27-08: I've got the headstock main area taped off and level-sanded to 600 grit.
 Logo & Design: This is considered an extra as it is not as per the original agreement where I agreed to "Customer" suppplied logo.
Normally, my minimum fee for three logo design examples is $200.00 . . . however, the logo was cancelled by Kevin on the 16th of August, but I will still be adding the black design with white pinstripe as pictured.
Headstock Photos: I was thinking that a black pinstripe would be good to go along that same outer edge as a continuation of the binding. Kevin agreed to the pinstripe. Here's some photos:
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