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Payment terms: I prefer to use Paypal for parts and USPS Money Order for Labor as Paypal whacks me a percentage and they do not deserve my hard earned money. I require 50% labor and 100% parts up front. Full payment is desireable.
A minimum labor payment of $100 is required prior to starting this type of project.
As it just so happens, this is a good example of a project that is intended only for a standard setup after inspections and ensuring frets are level, etcetera.
Note: As this is Steve Z's FIRST bass I am throwing in a cavity shielding and pickup padding for FREE~! If I had a good used lefty bass here in stock I would have donated it~! And I think every newcomer should have a P-bass as his first.
General Inspections: Prior to disassembly all features are inspected, especially electronics. Any major discrepencies will cause return of bass to Rondo and may incur an extra handling charge.
Upon full disassembly the bass is inspected for hidden cracks that may be in the pocket or cavities. All parts are waxed and buffed prior to, and after, reassembly.
Body: SX SPJ Body appears in excellent condition. Disassembled and desoldered electronics - see disassembled parts.
Finish: 3 Tone Sunburst will get a full polish, wax and buff after shielding cavities, prior to reassembly of components, as well as final buffing before packing.
Pickguard: Black-White-Black.
Copper foil shielding was applied to pickup area of the pickguard.
Two extra screws have been added at the control pot area for stability.
Bridge: SX 7-hole Fender bent plate style. The OEM Deluxe high mass bridge is the bridge I recommend if you want to replace the stock SX bridge. The OEM Deluxe is $30 shipped but I keep your SX 7-hole bridge and knock off $5 so it's $25
Update: 11-25-08 Turns out I had a bridge in stock after all. It's a take-off from a Fender jazz. It looks new but I'll only charge $20. Polished and installed.
Bridge & Pickup Covers: none . . . To many the covers are a PITA. To me, a bass looks nekid without at least the bridge pickup, and the stock bent-plate bridge looks fugly to me too. However, a heavier bridge looks better and it's really personal preference to have one or not. The question about screw holes stripping with repeated on/off for string replacement is a non-issue as long as one remembers these are NOT automobiles. These screws do not require high torque, or even low torque. In other words, you should NEVER be cranking down on any screws other than the neck and bridge. Very slight tightening is all that's required.
Strap: I have a black nylon strap somewhere that I can throw in for free. Although I highly recommend a wide leather strap with additional shoulder padding.
Couldn't locate the nylon strap so I provided my Comfort Strap. Value: $40
Strap Locks: Schallers are recommended even if one thinks they'll only be playing in their rec-room. This is where most of the accidents occur . . . when you least expect it . . . slammo . . . there goes your headstock~!
Installed with rubber grommets as no washers arrive with the Schallers and the felt washers are too weak to prevent damage to the finish. The tendency for folks to crank down on the screws causes cracking of the paint surface. Rubba is good~!
Neck: SX SPJ Maple/Rosewood P-Bass Neck received a partial fretjob and included full setup. A Partial Fretjob includes checking the nut to ensure the slots are adequate, even if I have to replace the nut if the string slots are too low.
Update: The nut is fine for the issued strings. If larger diameter strings are wanted in the future, the slots, as well as the bridge hole(s), will need enlargement.
Frets: 11-27-08 - Completed fret leveling after having to alter my neck jig to accept a left-handed neck. Found 6 frets to be in need of leveling which is typical on every factory-made bass on the planet. Polished frets and fretboard. Slightly radiused the fretboard edges comfort.
Deglazzing: Gloss was reduced from the back of the neck. I didn't remove the finish. I used a Scotchbrite pad to break down the outer surface just enough to allow your hand to glide over the neck. There's no charge to you.
Headstock: Some folks like to match the face of the headstock with the body paint. Although I personally like the face of a sunburst body to be plain because it matches the body center already, some have had me paint the face black.
String Nut: Stock white plastic. I challenge anybody to tell the difference between plastic and bone. The only time I advise changing out a nut is if the strings call for it or if the existing nut is unserviceable.
Strings: I think Rondo uses D'Addario .100, .080, .065, .045Actual diameters: .100, .075, .060, .045
Tuners: SX chrome machines. The tuning machines get diassembled if there is any looseness whatsover. A teflon shim is placed under the tuner key screw to rub the screw. I think all tuners should have teflon shims against the existing rub plates as the tuner key screw rubbing metal to metal creates premature wear.
Setup includes installation of strings, adjustments of neck relief, tuning, string height, intonation, and pickup height for maximum output. Completed 11-28-08
Electronics: Passive. Stock SX PJ Wiring
Tested operation prior to any disassembly. Both volume control worked fine independently, however, the tone control pot may need replacement as there was abnormally loud buzzing eminating from the bitch. I don't think shielding will eliminate this noise and I'll have to order a lefty tone pot if it doesn't.
11-24-08: Found the P-pup wiring reversed. This is not a "lefty" situation. This indicates the pups were installed in the opposite placement as normal.
Pickups: SX Jazz Bridge Pickups & P-Bass P'up:
11-25-08: Attached rubber pads to the bottom of each pickup and installed with proper location of pups as shown here. This eliminates movement (and clicking) while still retaining the adjustability of pickup height we all know and love.
Cavities: 11-24-08: All cavity surfaces were sanded smooth so the copper would adhere to the surfaces better than it would to a porous surface.
Applied copper foil shielding and soldered edges. Views: shielded cavities -|- soldered cavities
Controls: Stock SX V-V-T with side jack mount.
Control Knobs: Stock SX chrome push-on knobs.
Warning: Try not to turn the knobs fast or hard against their max control stops as the control pots are the Chinese made dime-sized el cheapos and have a tendency to move beyond these stops. That'll be the first sign that you'll be changing out the pots for heavier duty pots. Take care of your pots and they should last a number of years before they'll even need cleaning.
Extreme Warning: Amplifiers store energy in their capacitors even when the power is off and the cord is unplugged. There's enuf energy to KILL YOU~!
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Parts Checklist
 SX SPJ Body
• Finish: 3 Tone Sunburst
• OEM Deluxe Bridge
• BWB Pickguard
• Chrome PG Screws
• Schaller Strap Locks
SX P-Bass Neck
• Fretboard Work
• Chrome Tuning Machines
• Chrome Tuner Screws
• Chrome String Guide
• Stock SX Strings
Electronics
• Copper Foil Shielding
• SX Jazz & P-Bass P'ups
• Rubber Pickup Pads
• Chrome Pickup Screws
• CTS Solid Control Pots
• Switchcraft Output Jack
• .047µF Orange Drop Cap
• High Temp. Teflon Wire
• Standard PJ Wiring
• Chrome Control Knobs
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